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「龙腾网」为什么冲浪这么难学

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Why is surfing so difficult to learn?

为什么冲浪这么难学?

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Alastair Haldane, Company Director

Alastair Haldane，公司董事
原创翻译：龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处


Surfing is one of the hardest sports to master. 25 years on since I first picked up a board, and I’m still trying to figure it out. The key reason for it being so difficult, is it doesn’t allow for the systematic repetition required to drill a new skill into the brain. You can’t simply go out and repeat standing up on a wave like you can drill a forehand tennis swing over and over, or a left jab right hook combo in a mirror.
Varying environmental elements such as swell size, direction, wind, tide, sandbank position, competitive crowds all play into making sure that whenever you go down to the local beach to give it a another try, you’ll be greeted with completely different conditions. Soccer pitches and basket ball courts always have the same dimensions, the ocean does not.

冲浪是最难掌握的运动之一。从我第一次拿起冲浪板到现在已经25年了，我还在努力弄明白。它如此困难的关键原因是，没有考虑到在大脑中灌输一项新技能是需要系统性重复的，而你不能像在镜子里反复练习正手网球挥杆或左击右勾组合那样，简单地走出去，在波浪上重复站立。
不同的环境因素，如涌浪大小、方向、风、潮汐、沙洲位置、竞争激烈的人群，都在确保每当你去当地海滩再试一次时，都会遇到完全不同的情况。足球场和篮球场总是有相同的尺寸，海洋却没有。
原创翻译：龙腾网 http://www.ltaaa.cn 转载请注明出处


Another key element is fitness. To be a reasonably good surfer above average fitness is required. The friends I’ve taught surfing that learn the quickest are generally in good shape, it goes without saying if you’re fit, you’re able to paddle faster, catch waves easier and have more stamina to stay out there and improve your skills. One friend, in particular was standing up in his first lesson, he stayed out there for an hour and caught about 10 decent waves in the whitewash, standing up all the way to the beach. He is also a state grade tennis player, and AFL player so this background really helped him.

另一个关键因素是健康。要想成为一名相当优秀的冲浪运动员，身体素质必须高于平均水平。我教过的那些学习速度最快的冲浪朋友通常身体状况良好，不用说，如果你身体健康，你就能更快地划桨，更容易地利用海浪，并且有更多的耐力呆在那里，提高你的技能。尤其是有一位朋友，他在上第一课时就站了起来，而且在那里呆了一个小时，在白色的湖水中捕捉了大约10个像样的波浪，一直站到海滩。他也是一名国家级网球运动员，也是美国足球联盟球员，所以这种背景真的帮助了他。
I’ve played plenty of other sports over the years, including tennis, soccer, martial arts, kitesurfing and golf. Surfing still ranks above all of them in terms of difficulty to learn, but this is probably why it is so addictive and rewarding once you do start to progress. Good luck if you decide to take it on!

这些年来我参加了很多其他运动，包括网球、足球、武术、风筝冲浪和高尔夫。就学习难度而言，冲浪仍然排在所有人的前面，但这可能就是为什么一旦你开始进步，冲浪会让你欲罢不能和让你觉得值得的原因。如果你决定接受挑战，祝你好运！
Kevin Fleming, Follow Me on Instagram Xxxsurfstar
It is harder to some people than others. What makes it hard? Is it the paddling? If you spend a lot of time swimming your cardio will be stronger and you wont find it nearly as exhausting. Is it the duckdiving huge walls of whitewater in order to get outside? Well thats the price of admission, and good cardio will once again make it easier, or at least feel less punishing. Is it the balancing on the board? That just comes with pracice, you can use an indo board to help with that. Is it catching waves in a crowd? Well follow surfing ettiquette and know your place and wait your turn. Holding your breath when getting pounded in the impact zone? Good cardio and lots of time in the water will give you the stamina and confidence you need.

对一些人来说，这比其他运动更难学，是什么让它变得困难？是划水吗？如果你花很多时间游泳，你在有氧运动领域会更强，而且你会发现它几乎不会让你感到筋疲力尽。是在巨大的白浪墙前面潜泳出去吗？好吧，这就是敲门砖，良好的有氧运动能力将再次让它变得更容易，或者至少感觉不那么痛苦。是板上的平衡吗？这需要练习，你可以使用滑板来帮助实现这一点。是在人群中捕捉海浪吗？我们会遵循冲浪礼仪，了解你的位置，等待轮到你的时候再行动。被击中时要屏住呼吸，良好的有氧运动和在水上的大量时间将给你所需的耐力和信心。
Why is surfing so hard? Why is playing the guitar so hard? Kelly Slater and Eddie Van Halen woukd each say that they are easy. For some people these things arent hard at all. They tried something and found they were just naturally good at it. But they have each spent thousands of hours honing their craft. I was always a good strong swimmer. But my cardio wasnt so good. So i jogged and skipped rope and got into great shape. So when i decided to leave bodyboarding and become a surfer, it was an easy transition. I grew up at the beach so i understood the waves and tides, I could swim strong and had developed strong cardio and breathing and could hold my breath a long time even when gasping for air. If you arent in good physical condition, and cant swim well, then you will probably be too tired to enjoy being out there at all let alone trying to surf. But if you are prepared, by being in shape and understanding the waves and the ocean, you will be ready to try surfing, you wont panic when you wipe out or your leash breaks. There is a reason thT most surfers are lean and skinny, because it is an intense workout like no other. If you spend 10,000 hours practicing and just doing it, you will become great at it. But know going in what to expect, it is a lot of hard work, its not slow moving , its intense and fast and you must think quickly and react quickly and be in shape and in tune mentally. Your leash could break a half mile offshore in 8 foot waves, and you may have to swim in or drown. It is life or death out there, so be in shape and be prepared and it will get easier and easier the more time you spend out there. Its only hard until you are strong enough to survive it and confident enough to know you can do it because you have trained for it. Know your limits and if you stick with it and stay in shape and keep trying your limits will keep growing along with you. Aloha and mahalo for reading! Buena suerte!!!

为什么冲浪这么难？为什么弹吉他这么难？凯莉·斯莱特（Kelly Slater）和埃迪·范·海伦（Eddie Van Halen）都说他们很容易。对一些人来说，这些事情一点都不难。他们尝试了一些东西，发现自己天生擅长。但他们每个人都花了数千小时来磨练自己的技艺。我一直都是一个游泳健将。但我的有氧运动能力不强。所以我慢跑、跳绳，身体变得很好。所以，当我决定离开趴板冲浪成为一名冲浪者时，这是一个简单的转变。我在海滩上长大，所以我了解海浪和潮汐，我能游得很好，有很强的有氧运动和呼吸能力，即使在喘气的时候也能屏住呼吸很长时间。如果你身体状况不好，游泳也游不好，那么你可能会很累，在那里根本无法享受乐趣，更不用说尝试冲浪了。但是如果你做好了准备，通过保持良好的体形，了解海浪和海洋，你就可以尝试冲浪了，当你擦干净或者你的皮带断了的时候，你就不会惊慌失措。大多数冲浪者都很瘦是有原因的，因为这是一项前所未有的高强度运动。如果你花10000个小时来练习，你会变得很棒。但是，要知道接下来会发生什么，这是一项苦差事，它不是缓慢的行动，它紧张和快速，你必须快速思考和反应，并在精神上保持良好的状态。你的连接绳可能会在离岸半英里处的8英尺海浪中断裂，你可能不得不在水中游泳或溺水。在那时是生死攸关的时刻，所以保持良好的状态，做好准备，你在外面待的时间越多，事情就会变得越来越容易。只有当你足够坚强能挺过去、足够自信、知道自己能行，事情才会变得容易，因为你受过训练。知道你的极限，如果你坚持下去，保持身材，不断尝试，你的极限会随着你的增长而增长。再见，感谢阅读！祝你幸运！
Leonid S. Knyshov, CEO of Sendlixs, a customer acquisition startup. Send me a message :)
I took surfing classes in 2015. My prior background includes skating, dancing, and skateboarding. I am in good physical shape. With my instructor's assistance, I stood on the board in my first hour.
I started surfing on my own by my 4th class. That is not typical but I could do it with my background. I asked my teachers to help me understand the mechanics of surfing and how to read and time waves instead of focusing on standing on the board where I had no problems.
Surfing is an interesting activity consisting of three phases. Paddling to the point where you can catch the wave is a tough workout and that is phase one. Then you spend time in phase two waiting for the right wave by reading the ocean surface. Riding the board is not difficult and that is phase three but first you need to paddle in sync with the wave you are trying to catch. The key to riding the board is to identify the exact points on the board where you are stable and being able to jump to those points consistently.
There is also the matter of being able to read the ocean beach break pattern to see if the tide is right for surfing. My surfing lessons were rescheduled twice because the break pattern was not right.

我在2015年上了冲浪课。我之前会滑冰、舞蹈和滑板。我的身体状况很好。在教练的帮助下，我第一个小时就站在冲浪板上。
我从四年级开始自己冲浪。这并不具备代表性，以我的背景，才可以做到。我请老师帮助我理解冲浪的技巧，以及如何弄明白浪和浪的时间规律，而不是专注于如何站在对我没有难道的冲浪板上。
冲浪是一项有趣的活动，包括三个阶段。划到你能赶上海浪的程度是一项艰苦的训练，这是第一阶段。然后你花时间在第二阶段，通过读取海洋表面信息来等待正确的波浪。登上冲浪板并不困难，这是第三阶段，但首先你需要与你想要抓住的波浪同步划桨。骑滑板的关键是确定你在滑板上稳定的确切点，并且能够始终如一地跳到这些点。
还有一个问题是，你需要能够读懂海滩的破浪模式，看看潮汐是否适合冲浪。我的冲浪课被重新安排了两次，因为休息时间不对。